Steelhead Techniques From The Pros
Getting Started
The technique of drifting some kind of bait or bait imitation along the bottom and into a steelhead’s mouth has been around a long time. By drifting an offering just a couple feet off the bottom in as natural a manner as possible will catch steelhead with remarkable consistency.
Drift fishing, as the name implies, is simply using the river’s current to drift a bait or lure to the fish. The “secret’s” in the rigging, equipment, colors and presentations used to excite these wonderful fish into biting.
If you’ve never drift fished for steelhead, this short guide will be a big help in getting you started. If you’ve drift fished for steelhead and had some success this guide should give you valuable information you can use on the river immediately.
There’s no replacement for timing your fishing to the peak of the run, but you’ll also want to invest your time on the water to increase your chances and improve your presentation and drift fishing technique.
Basic Equipment
Many a seasoned steelheader started their drift fishing with little more than an 8’ medium heavy spinning rod and a sturdy spinning reel that could capably hold 130 yards or more of 10 pound test line.
That same set-up still works today though tastes have been refined considerably because of huge advances in technology.
Rods, for example are lighter and more sensitive than ever. Both rod weight and sensitivity are vital attributes when drifting for steelhead. The ability to discern between a bite and the bottom is essential to successfully and consistently catching steelhead and that sensitivity begins with the combination you use.
An 8 ½’ casting rod and casting reel set-up has some distinct advantages for drift anglers. That isn’t to say that spinning gear won’t work. Spinning gear actually provides a unique advantage for a modified version of drift fishing called, “free-drifting” or “side-drifting”, that’s becoming more and more popular every year. More on that later.
The rod should be rated for 8 to 12 pound test (although some prefer the heavier 8 to 17 lb. / or 10 to 20 lb. ratings), with a reel capable of holding 110 yards of 10 lb. test.
Drift Rigging
There are dozens of different riggings for drift fishing, here’s a few tried and true set-ups to get you started.
All drift rigs have a few common denominators. First, they are intended to keep your bait or lure within close proximity to the bottom. This is accomplished using just enough weight so occasional contact with the bottom is being made by the weight. “Occasional” is very important here. No contact with the bottom means you’re using too little weight and dragging along the bottom means you’re using too much. There’s always a leader that’s tied to a swivel so you can quickly re-rig if your leader breaks. Swivels also prevent annoying line twist
A perennial favorite among drift anglers across the region is the age-old pink pearl Corkie and yarn set-up. Corkies come in a variety of different sizes and colors. If you were to choose 4 Corkies to put in your fishing vest, selecting size 10 and size 12 Corkies in the pink pearl and fluorescent red colors would certainly top the list of reliable standards.
For low clear water you’ll want to use lighter longer leaders (up to 5’), and for high off-colored water you can move to a shorter heavier leader (as short as 18”).
The typical set-up calls for a 1/0 Daiichi Octopus hook in the Bleeding Bait Red color, a 30”, 8 lb. leader, a size 10 pink pearl Corkie that’s tied to a small black barrel swivel (size 10). The barrel swivel is then tied to the main line which has been left with purposely long tag end from the knot that you’ll attach your hollow core pencil lead to.
This simple set-up has evolved over the years to embrace a sliding weight system. The “slider” is made using a small black snap swivel that’s placed on your main line, followed by a small bead that’s tied to your barrel swivel. The weight’s attached to the snap swivel and slides freely up and down the line optimizing sensitivity. Either pencil lead or a weight called a “Slinky” can be used.
Red or pink yarn can be tied in the egg loop of your hook to complete the rigging. The yarn will add flash and attraction, hang-up in the teeth of the fish giving you a little more time to feel for the bite, and hold your favorite scent product…it’s an important part of this combination.
Lot’s of anglers choose to fish just a Corkie above a hook and log outstanding results. Others choose to fish bait in conjunction with this system and, again, do quite well.
Spin N’ Glos, another type of drift bobber that spins as it drifts down the river, can be equally as effective, and in off-colored water at times even more effective because of their added action and vibration.
Lures like some spinners and plugs can also be drift fished. Using spinners like Worden’s Roostertail Lite that’s buoyant or any one of a number of steelhead or salmon plugs that floats can be very productive too. The key is to keep the lure in the strike zone, that is, working just a couple feet off the bottom and again make sure your lead maintains occasional contact with the bottom.
